Doesn't Canyon have the "floating" bar that combines a flat bar with drops?
Getting more serious about cycling
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Last: 29 days ago by hbc07
Fair enough. I ride a road bike and I am on the tops or the hoods probably 90% of the time. I rarely ride in the drops unless I am in a fast group or it is really windy.Fedup said:I rode a road bike years ago when I honestly didn't ride as much as I do now. I ride an old hybrid with flat bar and I just don't want to be down in the 'drops' with a road bike. Thus my desire to go flat bar. I'm probably looking to buy more bike than I'll ever need or use since I'm not a top end cyclist but I'd rather spend more and be happier than go smaller and regret the purchase.txags92 said:I don't have any direct personal experience, but Canyon is a good reputable brand that makes good bikes. My question would be what are you planning to use the bike for and is there a specific reason you are going for the flat bar versus a standard road bike? If you are just looking for a bike to tool around town and ride short rides, the flat bar will be great, but you don't really have any reason to need the carbon fiber model and could save a bunch of money going with the aluminum frame model. The aluminum model will be more durable and has the same component group. If you have any interest in longer rides or think you might eventually want to work up to centuries or something like the MS150, do yourself a favor and get a regular road bike. The flat bar will give you fewer hand positions to switch to during the ride and puts more pressure on the ulnar nerves. My wife rode a flat bar bike in her first MS150 and developed ulnar neuropathy (also called cyclist's palsy). It was about 3-4 weeks after the MS150 before she could feel anything in a couple of her fingers.Fedup said:
Canyon bikes? Anyone have any experience with them? I'm looking to get a high end Roadlite. It's their flat bar, hybrid/city bike. Carbon fiber. Thanks in advance.
Forgot to post, I do have a PowerTap power meter mounted on a DT Swiss wheel which is pretty dang sturdy. I have some cages and some other stuff but nothing major.
Maybe age isn't really a factor in making this decision but at 57, I feel like I'm too old for a sleek road bike. I'm more a ride upright, enjoy myself as I crank as fast as I can kind of person. Who knows after riding a few more years and hopefully continuing to improve, I'll opt for a road bike when I'm 60. Thanks for all the feedback.txags92 said:Fair enough. I ride a road bike and I am on the tops or the hoods probably 90% of the time. I rarely ride in the drops unless I am in a fast group or it is really windy.Fedup said:I rode a road bike years ago when I honestly didn't ride as much as I do now. I ride an old hybrid with flat bar and I just don't want to be down in the 'drops' with a road bike. Thus my desire to go flat bar. I'm probably looking to buy more bike than I'll ever need or use since I'm not a top end cyclist but I'd rather spend more and be happier than go smaller and regret the purchase.txags92 said:I don't have any direct personal experience, but Canyon is a good reputable brand that makes good bikes. My question would be what are you planning to use the bike for and is there a specific reason you are going for the flat bar versus a standard road bike? If you are just looking for a bike to tool around town and ride short rides, the flat bar will be great, but you don't really have any reason to need the carbon fiber model and could save a bunch of money going with the aluminum frame model. The aluminum model will be more durable and has the same component group. If you have any interest in longer rides or think you might eventually want to work up to centuries or something like the MS150, do yourself a favor and get a regular road bike. The flat bar will give you fewer hand positions to switch to during the ride and puts more pressure on the ulnar nerves. My wife rode a flat bar bike in her first MS150 and developed ulnar neuropathy (also called cyclist's palsy). It was about 3-4 weeks after the MS150 before she could feel anything in a couple of her fingers.Fedup said:
Canyon bikes? Anyone have any experience with them? I'm looking to get a high end Roadlite. It's their flat bar, hybrid/city bike. Carbon fiber. Thanks in advance.
Wasn't trying to knock the choice in any direction. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the limitations of the flat bar regarding hand positions for longer rides. I just turned 50 and have no real "need" for a carbon road bike, but I have one anyway and we just bought my wife one last year. 57 is the new 40 when it comes to cycling...you would be amazed how many of my road cycling friends are 60+, retired, and faster than I am. They are posting pictures every day of their week day rides while I am working from home at the dining room table hoping for 45-60 mins on my peloton at night.Fedup said:Maybe age isn't really a factor in making this decision but at 57, I feel like I'm too old for a sleek road bike. I'm more a ride upright, enjoy myself as I crank as fast as I can kind of person. Who knows after riding a few more years and hopefully continuing to improve, I'll opt for a road bike when I'm 60. Thanks for all the feedback.txags92 said:Fair enough. I ride a road bike and I am on the tops or the hoods probably 90% of the time. I rarely ride in the drops unless I am in a fast group or it is really windy.Fedup said:I rode a road bike years ago when I honestly didn't ride as much as I do now. I ride an old hybrid with flat bar and I just don't want to be down in the 'drops' with a road bike. Thus my desire to go flat bar. I'm probably looking to buy more bike than I'll ever need or use since I'm not a top end cyclist but I'd rather spend more and be happier than go smaller and regret the purchase.txags92 said:I don't have any direct personal experience, but Canyon is a good reputable brand that makes good bikes. My question would be what are you planning to use the bike for and is there a specific reason you are going for the flat bar versus a standard road bike? If you are just looking for a bike to tool around town and ride short rides, the flat bar will be great, but you don't really have any reason to need the carbon fiber model and could save a bunch of money going with the aluminum frame model. The aluminum model will be more durable and has the same component group. If you have any interest in longer rides or think you might eventually want to work up to centuries or something like the MS150, do yourself a favor and get a regular road bike. The flat bar will give you fewer hand positions to switch to during the ride and puts more pressure on the ulnar nerves. My wife rode a flat bar bike in her first MS150 and developed ulnar neuropathy (also called cyclist's palsy). It was about 3-4 weeks after the MS150 before she could feel anything in a couple of her fingers.Fedup said:
Canyon bikes? Anyone have any experience with them? I'm looking to get a high end Roadlite. It's their flat bar, hybrid/city bike. Carbon fiber. Thanks in advance.
Interestingly that's one of the main reasons I settled on cycling (vs running/other cardio). Felt I could do it later in life plus a lot of people passing me were older. Gave me hope.txags92 said:Wasn't trying to knock the choice in any direction. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the limitations of the flat bar regarding hand positions for longer rides. I just turned 50 and have no real "need" for a carbon road bike, but I have one anyway and we just bought my wife one last year. 57 is the new 40 when it comes to cycling...you would be amazed how many of my road cycling friends are 60+, retired, and faster than I am. They are posting pictures every day of their week day rides while I am working from home at the dining room table hoping for 45-60 mins on my peloton at night.Fedup said:Maybe age isn't really a factor in making this decision but at 57, I feel like I'm too old for a sleek road bike. I'm more a ride upright, enjoy myself as I crank as fast as I can kind of person. Who knows after riding a few more years and hopefully continuing to improve, I'll opt for a road bike when I'm 60. Thanks for all the feedback.txags92 said:Fair enough. I ride a road bike and I am on the tops or the hoods probably 90% of the time. I rarely ride in the drops unless I am in a fast group or it is really windy.Fedup said:I rode a road bike years ago when I honestly didn't ride as much as I do now. I ride an old hybrid with flat bar and I just don't want to be down in the 'drops' with a road bike. Thus my desire to go flat bar. I'm probably looking to buy more bike than I'll ever need or use since I'm not a top end cyclist but I'd rather spend more and be happier than go smaller and regret the purchase.txags92 said:I don't have any direct personal experience, but Canyon is a good reputable brand that makes good bikes. My question would be what are you planning to use the bike for and is there a specific reason you are going for the flat bar versus a standard road bike? If you are just looking for a bike to tool around town and ride short rides, the flat bar will be great, but you don't really have any reason to need the carbon fiber model and could save a bunch of money going with the aluminum frame model. The aluminum model will be more durable and has the same component group. If you have any interest in longer rides or think you might eventually want to work up to centuries or something like the MS150, do yourself a favor and get a regular road bike. The flat bar will give you fewer hand positions to switch to during the ride and puts more pressure on the ulnar nerves. My wife rode a flat bar bike in her first MS150 and developed ulnar neuropathy (also called cyclist's palsy). It was about 3-4 weeks after the MS150 before she could feel anything in a couple of her fingers.Fedup said:
Canyon bikes? Anyone have any experience with them? I'm looking to get a high end Roadlite. It's their flat bar, hybrid/city bike. Carbon fiber. Thanks in advance.
I always enjoy when I stop for a small slurpee on really hot days. I've done some big days at White Rock where I stop every 2 laps to pick one up and cool the core a bit.AggieOO said:i'm going with popsicle too...especially in texas.txags92 said:Nah, when you get to the 3 hour point, you have earned a popsicle from the gas station.RangerRick9211 said:Tailwind for electrolytes.JoeOlson said:
Any recommendations for longer ride fueling? I've been taking gels, but I know some people add mixes to their drinks.
Gels, Haribo and Stroopwaffles if you want to be a stereotype (I am). Then add a donut or gas station burrito stop ever 3 hours - because you deserve it.
Keep in mind if you are going to road cycle you will get hit by a car sooner or later. Most likely not hard but everyone that I rode with did including myself. Luckily for me it was just a side mirror for a car that did not feel like moving over. White Rock area is normally safer than most when you get on the road.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
Basic guidance is to assume a car does not see you, and obey general common sense. Anticipate anticipate anticipate.P.U.T.U said:
Keep in mind if you are going to road cycle you will get hit by a car sooner or later. Most likely not hard but everyone that I rode with did including myself. Luckily for me it was just a side mirror for a car that did not feel like moving over. White Rock area is normally safer than most when you get on the road.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
The Varia rear-facing radar system is great for country roads. Stay within your comfort limits with traffic.
Plus one on the Varia. I have had one for a couple of months and am a huge fan. I have managed to bring at least one other person into the Varia fold after they saw how effective it is, and how I can "see" cars 150 yards back. Add that to a mirror and it's a GREAT safety system for road biking.yukmonkey said:Basic guidance is to assume a car does not see you, and obey general common sense. Anticipate anticipate anticipate.P.U.T.U said:
Keep in mind if you are going to road cycle you will get hit by a car sooner or later. Most likely not hard but everyone that I rode with did including myself. Luckily for me it was just a side mirror for a car that did not feel like moving over. White Rock area is normally safer than most when you get on the road.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
The Varia rear-facing radar system is great for country roads. Stay within your comfort limits with traffic.
No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. See full Medical Disclaimer.
For the varia, if I use my 945 as my gps tracker and just extend the display to my garmin edge computer, the edge can't display the radar alerts, correct?
It should show alerts on whichever device it's paired to. Personally, in your setup, I would pair it with the Edge and let that display the alerts right in front of you.
I have a 935 and an Edge - never take the 935 on my rides unless it's in a triathlon.
I have a 935 and an Edge - never take the 935 on my rides unless it's in a triathlon.
Can I pair it with the edge if the edge is in extended display mode?
How well does it work with riders following you? Can it distinguish a rider or paceline following you from a car?
It tends to give me the most issues:txags92 said:
How well does it work with riders following you? Can it distinguish a rider or paceline following you from a car?
- when in the middle of a pack (but I won't get hit theoretically)
- on a service road to an interstate/highway (but there is generally a shoulder)
Other than that, it's pretty damn good.
good to be aware of your surroundings and assume cars don't give two ****s about you. That said, out of all the people i know who ride, only know one who has been hit by a car. The hit itself wasn't much, but it ran him off the road and he gave up cycling after that.P.U.T.U said:
Keep in mind if you are going to road cycle you will get hit by a car sooner or later. Most likely not hard but everyone that I rode with did including myself. Luckily for me it was just a side mirror for a car that did not feel like moving over. White Rock area is normally safer than most when you get on the road.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
I still ride roads occasionally, but I'm on the mountain bike much more these days....mostly b/c I enjoy it more, but there's the added bonus of no cars.
I pair it to my Garmin watch AND to my cellphone running the Varia App (while simultaneously running either Wahoo or Strava or Ride with GPS). I get audible alerts on both devices. I think the 510 is the only one that will do the cellphone audible if you aren't running a Garmin or Wahoo head unit or the Varia unit itself, I could be wrong on that. An alternative is to get a mounted Varia display unit. Regardless, I really like seeing how many cars are back, how close they are getting, and how fast they are coming based on their display color. I ride in a lot of hilly areas. The device detects a difference in speed between my bike and someone behind me. Therefore, if I hit a hill and one of my buddies is still on a flat behind me, or if they are just making up speed and going to pass me, it will give an audible and alert for another bike until our speeds equalize. That is the only problem I have seen with it. Hope that helps.yukmonkey said:It tends to give me the most issues:txags92 said:
How well does it work with riders following you? Can it distinguish a rider or paceline following you from a car?
- when in the middle of a pack (but I won't get hit theoretically)
- on a service road to an interstate/highway (but there is generally a shoulder)
Other than that, it's pretty damn good.
Edit: one other issue to know about is that, if a car comes up behind you and then changes its speed to follow you at the same speed you are going before they pass you, they will temporarily "disappear" off of your screen until they pick up their speed to overtake.
Overall,I've become a big fan of it. Purchased it after a guy who does a ride I do was hit and killed while biking alone. No idea if this would have helped but....
No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. See full Medical Disclaimer.
I started cycling back in DC, living right off of Capitol Hill. I've had tons of close calls, knock on wood haven't been hit yet.P.U.T.U said:
Keep in mind if you are going to road cycle you will get hit by a car sooner or later. Most likely not hard but everyone that I rode with did including myself. Luckily for me it was just a side mirror for a car that did not feel like moving over. White Rock area is normally safer than most when you get on the road.
I am not a slushy fan but some kind of caffeinated soda is awesome during stops.
Cycling since 1993, haven't been hit yet.
I refuse to make an official statement on the grounds that it will result in me jinxing myself and getting hit by a car.
I will say that probably only 5-7 of my 57 miles today weren't on a trail. That will help me avoid cars.
Cycling shoes and pedals?
Any recommendations?
Also, I want to uograde my helmet. Any suggestions there?
Any recommendations?
Also, I want to uograde my helmet. Any suggestions there?
OP, I'm late to the conversation, but I'm a cycling noob in Dallas. I live right of WRL and used to cycle there often. Perhaps we can meet up (at a distance!) and kick each other in to gear! That's the best way to pick up speed and endurance.
Power meters, new gear, and all that fanciness is great if you have the time/money and want to fiddle, but being new to the game, I promise you're going to want to start small and work your way through upgrades over time. As your skill level improves, your tastes in what you want will change. Don't lock yourself in to gear now that you may outgrow in short order.
I said it earlier, but the best way to gain power/speed/endurance is to find someone, or a group, to ride with. There's nothing like getting your butt handed to you by someone faster than you. More so if they're older than you, too! LOL! You can also look in to HIIT and other programs that allow you to focus on strength/speed/endurance.
Just another noob's opinion.
Power meters, new gear, and all that fanciness is great if you have the time/money and want to fiddle, but being new to the game, I promise you're going to want to start small and work your way through upgrades over time. As your skill level improves, your tastes in what you want will change. Don't lock yourself in to gear now that you may outgrow in short order.
I said it earlier, but the best way to gain power/speed/endurance is to find someone, or a group, to ride with. There's nothing like getting your butt handed to you by someone faster than you. More so if they're older than you, too! LOL! You can also look in to HIIT and other programs that allow you to focus on strength/speed/endurance.
Just another noob's opinion.
My advice is to go somewhere that you can try on a bunch of different shoes and find ones that fit your feet. Some brands, like Bontrager and Lake are known for being better for wide feet. Others tend to run narrow. As far as cleat style and pedals, it depends on what kind of riding you plan to do. I like the wide platform of SPD-SL and Look style cleats, but if you plan to use them on a peloton bike or at the gym on spinning bikes, you might need to go with look delta. If you plan to do mountain biking or want to ride somewhere and then walk around, I would go with a mountain bike style shoe and SPD cleats which will also work with a lot of gym's spinning bikes. Unless you are doing a bunch of climbing and plan to race, there is no need to go for a carbon sole.wealeat09 said:
Cycling shoes and pedals?
Any recommendations?
Also, I want to uograde my helmet. Any suggestions there?
One thing to think about is color on your shoes if you plan to ride on roads shared with cars at all. There has been a lot of research into what is most visible for drivers approaching cyclists, and moving bright colors are way more visible than just a static bright colored jersey. So bright yellow or bright green shoes are becoming more popular, but take the time to look, as a lot of the manufacturers are (stupidly) making the entire shoe yellow or green except for the back of the shoe...which is the one part most visible to drivers approaching from behind. Maybe it has gotten better since I was in the market a couple of years ago, but only a few makers were selling an all yellow shoe that was yellow on the heel of the shoe.
Another thing...yellow shoes make you faster. If you watch cycling races on TV, you always notice the one guy in the breakaway or the front of the peloton riding with yellow shoes. When you are riding while wearing them and you look down, you feel like you have to ride harder and go faster to be "that guy", or else you are just some poser in yellow shoes.
The only advice I will give on helmets is look for ones with MIPS or other anti-concussion systems. They are designed to reduce the occurrence of concussions and it is worth not cheaping out on your helmet to get that extra bit of protection. Otherwise, in Texas, you want a lot of good ventilation for riding in the heat.
Great post.
One more thing for OP: Get fitted at a bike shop you trust! Ideally, you bring in your bike, they put it on a trainer, and they get you fitted for seat positioning, handlebars, pedals (assuming you have clip-ins) and give you a primer on body mechanics. It's literally the difference between having a great ride, OK ride, or a ride filled with pain.
One more thing for OP: Get fitted at a bike shop you trust! Ideally, you bring in your bike, they put it on a trainer, and they get you fitted for seat positioning, handlebars, pedals (assuming you have clip-ins) and give you a primer on body mechanics. It's literally the difference between having a great ride, OK ride, or a ride filled with pain.
It's super tough to get in with a bike shop right now. Most are booked solid for weeks.AggieBarstool said:
Great post.
One more thing for OP: Get fitted at a bike shop you trust! Ideally, you bring in your bike, they put it on a trainer, and they get you fitted for seat positioning, handlebars, pedals (assuming you have clip-ins) and give you a primer on body mechanics. It's literally the difference between having a great ride, OK ride, or a ride filled with pain.
Oiy. Bummer. Good to know.
I got the new bike. And so far so good.
Wow. What a difference it makes having a sub 20 pound bike with a 105 drivetrain.
Obviously I've only went on two rides but Polygon seems to deliver a solid product.
I had to adjust the front derailleur and one of the levers. But that's about it.
Wow. What a difference it makes having a sub 20 pound bike with a 105 drivetrain.
Obviously I've only went on two rides but Polygon seems to deliver a solid product.
I had to adjust the front derailleur and one of the levers. But that's about it.
where at in Arkansas, we live in NWA in Springdale/bentonville region.
No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. See full Medical Disclaimer.
Bump for a question, opinions
I have a '13 cannondale supersix I bought used for about $500 2 years ago, 105 components. I also have a '19 felt B14 tri bike I bought new about a year ago. I hit the jackpot and won a cervelo p3 in a raffle so this has been designated to a trainer bike while I train for Ironman Texas.
Assuming IMTX happens, I'm assuming I can sell the cannondale and felt for a pretty penny with current market. Probably more than I paid for the cannondale and not too far off on the felt. Figure I can then wait until this craze dies down and I would not be surprised if shops are over buying to make up for shortages, then demand levels out and they get all these bikes in and have a surplus so sales.
I'd like to upgrade my road bike but second guessing and torn on going gravel bike instead. I'll still have the cervelo for triathlons. But want a more comfortable bike to ride around houston when not training. Also a bike for ms150, bike around the bay, etc.
Thoughts? Road bike or gravel bike?
I have a '13 cannondale supersix I bought used for about $500 2 years ago, 105 components. I also have a '19 felt B14 tri bike I bought new about a year ago. I hit the jackpot and won a cervelo p3 in a raffle so this has been designated to a trainer bike while I train for Ironman Texas.
Assuming IMTX happens, I'm assuming I can sell the cannondale and felt for a pretty penny with current market. Probably more than I paid for the cannondale and not too far off on the felt. Figure I can then wait until this craze dies down and I would not be surprised if shops are over buying to make up for shortages, then demand levels out and they get all these bikes in and have a surplus so sales.
I'd like to upgrade my road bike but second guessing and torn on going gravel bike instead. I'll still have the cervelo for triathlons. But want a more comfortable bike to ride around houston when not training. Also a bike for ms150, bike around the bay, etc.
Thoughts? Road bike or gravel bike?
I've had a Specialized Roubaix that I have ridden for about 3 years. This March, just as the Coronavirus hit, I purchased a Trek Checkpoint ALR 5. I miss not having Di-2 and a full carbon frame on the gravel bike, but otherwise I love it. Mostly, I like the terrain that it affords me. I bike up in North Georgia with a couple of guys who have multiple bikes, and they are transitioning more and more to gravel roads. More beauty, less, traffic, etc. When I am at home and biking alone on roads, I pretty much still use my gravel bike. I like the more upright posture that it puts me in, and I feel I am MUCH safer on it with 40 mm gravel tires versus 28s. I have done a bunch of the road rides on both bikes, and I definitely am a couple of mph slower on the gravel bike. Therefore, I can't really take it on the road with any big biking groups or with the guys I normally ride with in town. Otherwise, I am really sold on the gravel bike. Hope that helps.htxag09 said:
Bump for a question, opinions
I have a '13 cannondale supersix I bought used for about $500 2 years ago, 105 components. I also have a '19 felt B14 tri bike I bought new about a year ago. I hit the jackpot and won a cervelo p3 in a raffle so this has been designated to a trainer bike while I train for Ironman Texas.
Assuming IMTX happens, I'm assuming I can sell the cannondale and felt for a pretty penny with current market. Probably more than I paid for the cannondale and not too far off on the felt. Figure I can then wait until this craze dies down and I would not be surprised if shops are over buying to make up for shortages, then demand levels out and they get all these bikes in and have a surplus so sales.
I'd like to upgrade my road bike but second guessing and torn on going gravel bike instead. I'll still have the cervelo for triathlons. But want a more comfortable bike to ride around houston when not training. Also a bike for ms150, bike around the bay, etc.
Thoughts? Road bike or gravel bike?
No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. See full Medical Disclaimer.
That's what I'm torn about. I love the di2 on my cervelo, just feels "easier" to ride faster, smoother, etc. So naturally I want that in a road bike. But the wider/safer tires, more options of trails, and comfort are exactly why I'm considering gravel. My wife is also pregnant with our first, so I anticipate more "casual" riding in our future. But we are in houston, not the trails and mountains of Colorado.....
I haven't really joined any cycling clubs so most my rides are solo. So riding a couple mph slower won't cost me anything but pride....
I haven't really joined any cycling clubs so most my rides are solo. So riding a couple mph slower won't cost me anything but pride....
Maybe there are more gravel rides accessible to you than you are aware of. My gravel bike also has disc brakes, road bike has rim brakes. Definitely another plus for safety where I ride (I've clocked 48 mph on a big downhill WITH braking on the road bike), while maybe not such a big issue in Houston.
No material on this site is intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. See full Medical Disclaimer.
htxag09 said:
That's what I'm torn about. I love the di2 on my cervelo, just feels "easier" to ride faster, smoother, etc. So naturally I want that in a road bike. But the wider/safer tires, more options of trails, and comfort are exactly why I'm considering gravel. My wife is also pregnant with our first, so I anticipate more "casual" riding in our future. But we are in houston, not the trails and mountains of Colorado.....
I haven't really joined any cycling clubs so most my rides are solo. So riding a couple mph slower won't cost me anything but pride....
Check out the Bicycle Speed Shop, they host some gravel rides nearby.
So I follow bicycle world on social media, they are having a tent sale and seem to have a **** ton of bike, entry road bike, higher end road bikes, tri bikes, mountain bikes, etc. I mean they took a video of the bikes part of the tent sale and there were at least 50 bikes just part of the sale. What gives? You walk into any bike shop in houston and they'll have a few several thousand dollar electric bikes and maybe a couple others. This just because they're in Waco and demand isn't there?
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