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62strat
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In reply to Ornlu • 11:27a, 12/4/18
AG
Ornlu said:


Strat, how do you sanitize that aeration stone??
I use PBW for just about everything. After a soak, blow co2 or oxygen through it to push stuff out of pores.

Quote:


The O2 tanks for welding are contaminated by oil vapors and you don't want to brew with them.

you talking about these little guys?

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Ornlu
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In reply to 62strat • 11:58a, 12/4/18
AG
No, I mean these guys:


Those little tanks are refilled in a facility with vapor-proof compressors. The larger 20-gallon tanks are refilled by small compressors which leach oil vapor into the product.

Ask your welding gas supplier about this. The difference between "medical/food grade" gas and "industrial gas" is the percentage of oil vapor that it contains. It's like 4 PPB for the medical/food grade, vs 250 PPB for industrial.

The workaround would be to buy an industrial container but have it filled in a medical-grade facility, except our arsehole government has declared that off limits without a doctor's note...
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62strat
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12:14p, 12/4/18
AG
Could you oxygenate with CO2?

It's been a while since I took any chemistry, but CO2 obviously has O2 in it... a question for a science nerd

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Ornlu
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In reply to 62strat • 1:17p, 12/4/18
AG
Not sure if serious?

No, you oxygenate with O2. Can't have any other atoms attached to the molecule.


However, you CAN oxygenate with standard air, as it contains O2. He's what's in ordinary air:
Composition of Dry Air

Quote:
Substance % by volume
Nitrogen, N2 (78.08%)
Oxygen, O2 (20.95%)
Argon, Ar (0.93%)
Carbon dioxide, CO2 (0.033%)
Neon, Ne (0.0018%)
Helium, He (0.00052%)
Methane, CH4 (0.0002%)
Krypton, Kr (0.00011%)
Dinitrogen oxide, N2O (0.00005%)
Hydrogen, H2 (0.00005%)
Xenon, Xe (0.0000087%)
Ozone, O3 (0.000001%)

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/CHEMWEEK/GasesofAir2017.pdf

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AlaskanAg99
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1:29p, 12/4/18
AG
Dat O3 IPA. You heard it here first folks.
aTm '99
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62strat
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In reply to Ornlu • 2:44p, 12/4/18
AG
Ornlu said:
Not sure if serious?

No, you oxygenate with O2. Can't have any other atoms attached to the molecule.


However, you CAN oxygenate with standard air, as it contains O2. He's what's in ordinary air:
Composition of Dry Air

Quote:
Substance % by volume
Nitrogen, N2 (78.08%)
Oxygen, O2 (20.95%)
Argon, Ar (0.93%)
Carbon dioxide, CO2 (0.033%)
Neon, Ne (0.0018%)
Helium, He (0.00052%)
Methane, CH4 (0.0002%)
Krypton, Kr (0.00011%)
Dinitrogen oxide, N2O (0.00005%)
Hydrogen, H2 (0.00005%)
Xenon, Xe (0.0000087%)
Ozone, O3 (0.000001%)

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/CHEMWEEK/GasesofAir2017.pdf

yeh.. like I said, it's been a while since I took chemistry!
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Moxie
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8:53a, 12/5/18
AG
Kegged my Kolsch last night and it tasted great. I may be getting the hang of this brewing thing finally! On the yeast cake I poured another batch of cider, this time with mango puree added since the last batch was gone in record time.

On another note, moving to kegging has been the best decision I've ever made with homebrewing. Everything goes so much smoother.
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62strat
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In reply to Moxie • 10:08a, 12/5/18
AG
Quote:

On another note, moving to kegging has been the best decision I've ever made with homebrewing. Everything goes so much smoother.
Definitely. I can't imagine still procuring, cleaning and filling bottles anymore. I have been struggling filling bottles or growlers when I want to take some with me (no matter what I do, I get lots of foam), but I ordered a 3 gal keg that comes in today.. that seems like it would be easy to bring around. I may end up buying a 1.75gal one as well for even easier transport. You can close transfer into them, then just bring along my little portable keg charger and and one of these and you're good to go.



I think next brew might be something sour.
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Ornlu
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In reply to 62strat • 12:50p, 12/5/18
AG
I have three growlers (2x 40oz and 1x 64oz). That's good enough to take stuff with me.


I recently started bottling 6x12oz of each batch, to save for competitions. I just wait until the keg's good and carbed up, purge with CO2, and then fill from tap. Still, it's a PITA. Maybe I'll buy a growler filler attachment and a new faucet.

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AlaskanAg99
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1:25p, 12/5/18
AG
I use a cannonball keg as my cleaning keg, so easy to clean it sanitize lines etc... And not a big pain yo deal with like a corny. So do it!

Of course the wife now wants it for cold pressed coffee on tap. So will have to buy another.
aTm '99
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62strat
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In reply to Ornlu • 2:41p, 12/5/18
AG
Ornlu said:
I have three growlers (2x 40oz and 1x 64oz). That's good enough to take stuff with me.


I recently started bottling 6x12oz of each batch, to save for competitions. I just wait until the keg's good and carbed up, purge with CO2, and then fill from tap. Still, it's a PITA. Maybe I'll buy a growler filler attachment and a new faucet.

I have growler nozzle for the intertaps.. but still I get a lot of foam. I'll release all keg pressure and just push it through at a few psi. When almost full, I start getting all the foam, I let it continue to fill to try and get mostly liquid. I have it in a pot on the ground and by the time I'm done, I have sticky hands, a sticky growler, beer on the ground, beer in my pot.. It's just a hassle. Thanks, Obama.

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Chipotlemonger
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4:40p, 12/6/18
AG
Began Diacetyl rest on my amber lager Tuesday night. Has been at 66-68 degrees. I was originally planning to rack to secondary tonight, but have seen some information regarding longer than 48-hour diacetyl rest.

Thoughts? Rack tonight and ride with it? Wait a day or 2?

PSA: I only pitched one bag of liquid yeast into this beer.
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Ornlu
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8:48p, 12/6/18
AG
What should I bring this weekend?
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62strat
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In reply to Chipotlemonger • 9:55p, 12/6/18
AG
Chipotlemonger said:
Began Diacetyl rest on my amber lager Tuesday night. Has been at 66-68 degrees. I was originally planning to rack to secondary tonight, but have seen some information regarding longer than 48-hour diacetyl rest.

Thoughts? Rack tonight and ride with it? Wait a day or 2?

PSA: I only pitched one bag of liquid yeast into this beer.

No sense in rushing it. No harm done to letting it sit warmer for a bit to make sure it cleans up all that diacetyl.

There is a diacetyl test you can do as well.
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Chipotlemonger
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In reply to 62strat • 9:56p, 12/6/18
AG
Went ahead and transferred to secondary tonight. Brought temp down just to 63 for overnight so still in diacetyl clearing range...will gradually drop to lager temps. I was thinking 3 degrees a day?
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62strat
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In reply to Chipotlemonger • 10:20a, 12/7/18
AG
Chipotlemonger said:
Went ahead and transferred to secondary tonight. Brought temp down just to 63 for overnight so still in diacetyl clearing range...will gradually drop to lager temps. I was thinking 3 degrees a day?
What are you fermenting in again?
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Chipotlemonger
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In reply to 62strat • 10:32a, 12/7/18
AG
62strat said:
Chipotlemonger said:
Went ahead and transferred to secondary tonight. Brought temp down just to 63 for overnight so still in diacetyl clearing range...will gradually drop to lager temps. I was thinking 3 degrees a day?
What are you fermenting in again?
5-gallon glass carboy for secondary
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Drewmeister
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In reply to AlaskanAg99 • 4:06p, 12/8/18
AG
AlaskanAg99 said:
Well...the hard part is when you go to crash cool is how to prevent O2 pickup.

Real PITA.

Ideally you go to D rest, then to keg and crash under pressure. The flip argument is because you pulled it off the yeast the quality won't be as good.

I go with the former because of my setup.
I've taken to using a "BruLoonLock" for my last couple batches. Literally just a mylar balloon from the dollar store, filled with CO2.

For my NE IPA I captured off-gassing CO2 (and hop aroma!) during fermentation, but for the English Mild I just filled the balloon off my tank. After cold crashing a 6.5-gal carboy from 68F to 34F, the balloon shrank to about 1/3 full.

I didn't cut out the check valve, since I was worried about cutting too far and ruining the balloon. Instead, I used a ~6-in. piece of copper tubing inserted far enough into the balloon to keep the valve open, with a gentle bend in it so it takes up less vertical space.
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G. hirsutum Ag
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6:46a, 12/10/18
AG
Few updates, I decided against brewing for my company party. The logistics involved were overwhelming. Turned out to be the right decision. Maybe next year.

Christmas ale was decent this year, not near as good as last year. I followed the same recipe but did all grain from a different supplier instead of extract kit. I had to substitute a few grains so maybe that had an impact. Also my extraction was low so i had to add some DME, maybe that had an affect as well. Then following new recommendations my yeast crapped out early and my FG was high. It was still a good beer but not like it was.

I also over carbed it some. When using my perlick taps I tend to shoot for 2.7-2.8 volumes as they tend to be less foamy, usually comes out great, but with a picnic tap it came out over carbed. Maybe I should invest in a jockey box.

Next brew will be another cream ale then need to plan my next ones after that. Thinking maybe the whitehouse honey porter or something along those lines. Also need to plan st paddy's day. What do you guys do for that one?
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Moxie
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7:47a, 12/11/18
AG
Since I'm getting a new SS kettle for Christmas, I want to replace my old burner that produces soot on the bottom of the kettle. Any recommendations? 8-12gal BIAB setup (~6gal to fermenter)
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Ornlu
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In reply to Moxie • 8:00a, 12/11/18
AG
I strongly prefer the banjo-style burners. Like this one on amazon. High heat output, no soot, and good heat distribution.

I currently use a jet burner and while it's great, durable and fast, it's LOUD. Like you can't have a conversation while brewing loud. Like at the end of a brew day, my ears ring.

The old school, low-pressure cast iron burners suck. They're not durable enough and eventually result in the soot problem you mentioned.

Fourth choice, although I haven't personally used one, is a multi-tipped jet burner. Like this:
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Moxie
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8:17a, 12/11/18
AG
That's the way I was headed. I have this one in my cart right now but waiting to pull the trigger until I get some feedback.

Thanks!
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Ornlu
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8:28a, 12/11/18
AG
I've used that one, and it's great. Wish I owned one.

My only complaint would be that 3 legs are better than 4.
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Moxie
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In reply to Ornlu • 8:36a, 12/11/18
AG
I would've thought the opposite? I have a 2yo and wanted the most stability possible.
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62strat
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In reply to Ornlu • 9:13a, 12/11/18
AG
Quote:


My only complaint would be that 3 legs are better than 4.
Had this conversation with the guy working when I bought my Spike conical. The SS brewtechs have 4 legs, spike has 3, and I said that was one of my main complaints of the spike.. why not make it 4!!

I'll be damned if I didn't get that thing home, assemble it, then when I go to clean it, I grabbed my water hose, walked it over to the conical, put it in there, walked back to turn on hose, and before I even got to the spigot, the damn thing fell over!

Moxie, more legs = harder to tip over. So 4 legs is always sturdier than 3.

However, something with 4 or more legs can wobble, while 3 legs can't (3 points make a plane).. maybe that's what you're thinking of?
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Ornlu
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In reply to 62strat • 10:18a, 12/11/18
AG
Yes I'm talking about wobble. Stability against over toppling comes from having the legs as far apart as possible but stability from wobble comes from only 3 legs.
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Moxie
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10:16a, 12/12/18
AG
Have some English Ale yeast (WLP002) that I need to use. Any favorite recipes? Leading idea right now is an English Oatmeal Stout. I made an ESB with this yeast a few months ago and found it to be too bitter so I could also try an English Mild (dark or light).
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AlaskanAg99
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11:18a, 12/12/18
AG
Yeast strain won't impact bitter profile unless you had too many IBUs and it attenuated too far. In which case that's a recipe design problem and not a yeast problem. 002 does really well in cider if you want to make something easy and quickly.
aTm '99
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Moxie
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3:37p, 12/12/18
AG
Right, I agree. I meant that more in the sense of I don't want to make another ESB but open to other ideas.
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62strat
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8:40a, 12/14/18
AG
Hooked up the carb stone attachment last night and put gas on it. It was bubbling away. Curious to see how carbed it is when I get home. Its says 24-48 hours to fully carb.

Not sure if this will work.. I'll give it a shot.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/mylpyybbeq2s3rm/2018-12-13%2020.45.34.mov
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G. hirsutum Ag
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In reply to 62strat • 11:15a, 12/14/18
AG
That's neat. I assume you pulled the trub and yeast off before hooking that up? How do you transfer it?
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62strat
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11:24a, 12/14/18
AG
No I realized this morning I actually forgot to. I wonder if that's gonna do something weird to flavor? I'll have to turn off co2 and let it settle I guess before dumping. This is a belgian wit, so a good style to be cloudy if it is.

For transfer I'll put this guy on my racking valve




then have a jumper hose with two liquid qds on it. Put a little pressure in the conical and it will push it into keg.
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G. hirsutum Ag
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In reply to 62strat • 7:24a, 12/15/18
AG
There's a difference in some cloudiness and having all that stuff back in suspension. I'd bleed off carbonation let it settle but not cold crash and then dump that stuff off
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Drewmeister
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In reply to Moxie • 3:43p, 12/15/18
AG
That Fuller's strain is very versatile. It should be good, if not the perfect match, for most English styles; it also works well for IPAs. A few years back Stone published homebrew versions of some of their beers in BYO magazine (I think) and they used WLP002 in the Stone IPA. I've done at least that Stone clone and a dark mild with that yeast, and probably a couple others I'm forgetting (I think a Real Ale Full Moon Rye clone used it too).

I prefer the Chico/Cal Ale strain for west-coast IPAs but only slightly. It took doing a split-batch comparison between these two strains for me to really notice any difference, and both were delicious and style-appropriate.
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Moxie
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In reply to Drewmeister • 7:32a, 12/17/18
AG
Thanks! The Rye IPA is a beer I've always liked so I may lean that direction. Good info!
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